Well, it’s been almost 10 years since I have updated this. Obviously I am pretty slack with things, but I am going to attempt to correct that. A lot has happened in those 10 years, so new posts will be out of order in regards to time. A lot more will be happening in the next 10 years I hope.
3D printers as standard cruising equipment.
I built my first 3D printer probably around 10 years ago. It was like magic. Now, it’s still like magic. I don’t print toys (often)… 99% of what I print are considered functional prints. I think it’s going to become much more common, and almost standard equipment for cruising boats.
Spare parts on demand.
Recently the sea strainer basket for my air conditioner failed. Groco make super nice sea strainers, but their baskets are terrible. They use 304 stainless that eventually corrodes away (yes they have plastic versions too). Replacements cost $70!!! I can’t imagine it costs more than $2 to make these. And you need to carry a couple of spares, two is one, and one is none sort of thing.
I figured I could print something that works just as well, or maybe better. 2 hours of design work, and a few hours of printing, tada.

You can see the corroded $70 version, a brand new spare one, and my printed version. It has a separate base so you can put a copper fitting in the strainer to slowly leach a small amount of copper into the sea water combating growth in the strainer, and in the lines. The actual basket is 2.5mm thick, uses gyroid infill without sidewalls to let water through. I am experimenting with infill density and thickness to get the right values, but so far it works really well.
This is printed with PETG making it strong and a bit flexible so it works well. I am experimenting with PHA which is completely biodegradable, bio-based and is not really plastic. For this part though, I am going to try a filament infused with copper powder to resist growth and clogging in the strainer.
Smarter parts
Lewmar make excellent anchor foot switches, but have what I think is a design flaw. I see their logic in it… sort of. The boat came with ones have the actual switches open so you can operate them without opening the cover. The rubber eventually succumb to the UV light and degraded, leaving the circuit open to the weather, and it failed. The replacement switches I found at the time are also open to the UV, so the same thing will eventually happen.
I made new covers, ones that closed the switch off to UV light, but also added a new feature. Like a lot of people, I paint my anchor rode based on depth so I can see how much I have out. There’s a method to remember which color is which length, but I figured it would be easier just to have it at the switch so you don’t need to remember.


I hope the 10 year wait was worth it. I don’t plan on it being another 10 years for the next post.




















































